7. > A hacksaw is good for straight or slightly curved cuts, a jewelers saw > is basically a coping saw for use in harder materials than wood or > plastic. Thinest blade is very thin, under 1/100 of an... 3. I think I’m going to try to make friends with the bowsaw for this operation. Nice post Chris, Coping saws are a fairly standard animal. Fret work, like jewelery work, was usually performed on thin workpieces hence the lack of a need for a powerful clamping mechanism. Then you just turn and saw. Coping saws are a fairly standard animal. The saw is very flexible and strong. What’s the difference between a good monkey and a clever monkey, and can one be both? Fret saws are designed for delicate work. But I can’t get a lot of tension on the blade so I just go slow. These blades are also very expensive. As a beginner I appreciate the ease of threading the saw blades and adjusting the tension on the Knew saw frames. I have always assumed they were designed specifically for coping moulding. Most of them have deep throats for fretwork — the little saw I call a "fretsaw" in this post is technically a jeweler’s saw. > 1) Is a hacksaw the best hand tool to use for metal cutting? And the blades for jewelers saws have more teeth per inch for > the harder materials and should be made of better materials than coping > saw blades for wood and plastic. If not, I’m sure someone will whoop me. that is indeed a jewelers saw. Blades are made of good steel, but nothing very special. 1) Is a hacksaw the best hand tool to use for metal cutting? Have you tried the dovetail cutout saw that I’ve seen Frank Klausz use? They are intended for aggressive cuts, wider turns, and are best suited for woodworkers. You also can get them in different depths from 4 to 6. http://www.contenti.com/products/saws/400-374.html 14. It takes me 12 to 14 strokes to remove the waste between tails. Blades come in a variety of thickness from 0000 or so to 1, 2, ...8. Drill a small hole with an eggbeater near the baseline in the center of the waste. Come back and make swoop two. Jeweler's saw blades fit in a vice-like (tiny) arrangement at the top and bottom of the saw frame. The other saw that I should draw your attention to is the "Featherweight Fret-Saw Frame" from Lee Valley. For a modest priced jeweler's saw and blades try a hobby shop. My favorite metal cutting hand tool is a skill saw with a carbide blade. Chris is the former editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine. It’s about $12 and beats the pants off the stuff at the home centers. Most blades are .125", which makes the turning radius larger. If you want to see a good video on how to tune up a fretsaw, check out Rob Cosman’s site. I get a much greater sense of achievement from the skill involved in hand tools than bandsaws and routers. Mill Taper "40": ISO-40 vs. CAT-40 vs. CT-40 vs. BT-40 ??? The far end of the blade sits in the kerf, you poke a few times to get the cut started, and then finish with the near part of the blade. Put a coping saw through the kerf into the hole, turn sideways, and cut the waste out along (or close to) the baseline in each direction. Subscribe ». 3) What is so special about a jeweler's saw anyway - is the blade made of some extra tough steel? They are great for small jobs or where you need a cut with a very narrow kerf and make corner cuts with a tiny radius. Coping saws require two swooping passes to remove the waste. Thinest blade is very thin, under 1/100 of an inch. I use 11.5 tpi scrollsaw blades and it takes about 30 strokes to get through the waste between my typical tails in hardwood. Weldor of metals. Jewelers saw vs. Coping saw vs. Hacksaw 1. chop saw vs miter saw for cutting piping? If I wanted to > buy a good blade I would look for someplace selling to the jewelers or > metalcraft trades trade or specializing in better quality tools. Cut down (with a dovetail or coping saw) to get a kerf to the hole. I chop out the remaining wood to the baseline, working in from each side. . He's a hand-tool enthusiast (though he uses power tools, too). I don’t understand why turning the blade while keeping the frame upright turns a sharper corner than turning the whole saw, blade and frame together. Ability to very precisely adjust the blade tension (you do it by ear - piinnng/ponng). It's a big day. ?? Jewelers and Fret saws, as you noted, hold the blade in clamps. The major downside to the coping saw is that you have to remove the waste in two passes instead of one. HEYMOUS Jeweler's Saw Frame kit with Blades 12 Pieces Adjustable Jewelers Wax Ring Precision C… I have always assumed they were designed specifically for coping moulding. I think "who cares" – it’s not a glue surface and the joined piece is well supported at each side of the socket. So, like any good monkey, I bought a fret saw and did it that way for many years. I use the Olson CP301 blade in my old Craftsman coping saw and it works great. The good ones already have serations and involve no setup. – Simple Woodworking Projects, http://www.contenti.com/products/saws/400-374.html. With two inches between the pins I’m pretty sure it was (much) faster than chiseling. Cheers! Sounds like there’s a market here for a froping saw. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop.

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